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Home >> Photography >> Film Equipment
Bronica
Tips
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A UK
user of the SQ-Ai emailed me about a problem with a film back he had
purchased second-hand. I had little inkling of the cause of the problem
until I looked at my own film back more closely to see if I could understand
a little more about its operation.
That email
inspired the creation of this page of tips and tricks for the Bronica
SQ-Ai, which could also be of use to users of the ETRSi and GS-1 kits,
given their very close operational similarities.
If any
other users has more to offer, by all means, send them my way for posting
on this page. |
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| Film
backs |
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Film
backs for the Bronica cameras seem to be derided for being the weak
spot of the kit. Generous use of plastics (not my favorite material,
as regular readers will know) provide for a lighter weight but then
the backs themselves feel "lightweight" in quality too thanks
to its use.
Users who
experience a camera being able to release the shutter even when the
dark slide is in place need to look closely at the section of the back
circled in red. |
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There
is a black plastic cylinder that protrudes out from the back and interfaces
with the camera.
Inside
the cylinder, when the dark slide is in place (red arrow), a metal rod
comes out but stays within the black plastic cylinder.
This metal
rod locks the shutter on the camera when the dark slide is properly
in place and prevents wastage of film via accidental shutter release. |
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When
the dark slide is pulled out, the metal rod retracts inside the film
back and allows the shutter to be released.
Incidentally,
the dark slide can be pulled out from the back even when the back has
been disengaged from the camera.
A small
release, seen in the blue circle at left, can be pushed in to allow the
dark slide to be removed. |
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| Lenses |
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Bronica's
Zenzanon lenses are electronically controlled thanks to battery power.
Although this precludes any manual operation, such as offered by Hasselblad,
the shutter speeds are very accurate. Actually, there is one manual
speed of 1/500 available should battery power go down.
Despite
the highly accurate timing of the shutter, the shutter's blades are
still controlled by springs and when the shutter is open, the springs
are tensed.
The shutter
needs to be open for mounting and dismounting of lenses, but when lenses
are not being used for long periods of time, releasing the springs and
hence the shutter, will help to prolong the life of the springs.
To release
the shutter, locate the small lever on the side of the lens mount, as
shown at left. |
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This
is a two-handed operation but quite easy to do.
The thumb,
beside the "Japan" print, is pushing in the lever on the side
of the lens mount. The index finger of the same hand is positioned to
release one of the two shutter release levers.
The thumb
or index finger of the left hand, at bottom, releases the other shutter
release lever.
As shown
in the image at left, the shutter can now be manually closed. |
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Push
the two shutter release levers all the way to the end of the small arc
outlined in red on the lens mount.
When the
lens is needed again, simply push the two release levers fully to the
other side as marked by the green dots on the lens mount. The lens is
ready for mounting on the camera or lens accessory, such as extension
tubes of teleconvertors. No need to push the side lever, as required
for releasing the shutter.
The
Bronica Lockup
Hasselblad
cameras have a notorious lockup reputation amongst their users. If a
lens or lens accessory mounting is not mounted in the proper order,
a lockup occurs that can only be unlocked by a service tech or by those
who own a special tool to unlock the shutter.
Less well
known is the Bronica lockup that can also occur if a lens or usually,
a lens accessory such as an extension tube or teleconvertor is not mounted
correctly.
The example
shot below shows an 80mm lens mounted to a 36mm extension tube, which
in turn is mounted onto the camera.
Take the
lens and tube off of the camera as one unit and then try to release
the lens from the tube. Chances are you won't be able to release them
via the release knob of the tube as shown below right. |
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Why
is this the case, that the lens and tube cannot be released after dismounting
from the camera. The key is the shutter release levers introduced to
you earlier on this page.
When you
dismount an extension tube or a teleconvertor, what happens is that
the release levers have actually been disengaged and a quick glance
at them will seem normal enough. But, look a little closer.
The image
below left shows the shutter release levers slightly disengaged, right
after dismounting from the camera. When the release levers are properly
engaged, the levers are directly below the green dot on the lens mount.
You need to ensure the levers are fully engaged, otherwise the lens
will not be released from the extension tube or teleconvertor.
I do not
know why this disengagement occurs with extension tubes and teleconvertors,
as it does not happen with lenses by themselves. Also, when mounting
the tube or teleconvertor back onto the camera for further use, ensure
that the levers are engaged before doing so.
Note that
these tips and images are for SQ bodies and accessories. There are slight
differences for the other series of tubes, such as those for the ETR
bodies. The release catch is on the inside of the tube instead of the
outside as seen in the image top right. Thanks to Bud Smithers for pointing
this out. |
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On a
related note, the shutter must be open on the lens before you can dismount
from the camera. Otherwise, the lens is locked until you crank the film
winder again.
Users of
motor drives need not worry about this as the motor winds the film forward
while cocking the shutter again.
Some users
have commented on hearing something rattle inside their lenses when
they shake the lens. As far as I have been able to determine, this is
just the sound of the springs inside the lens and is of no concern whatsoever
for the operational utility of the lens and of the whole system together.
All four of my lenses have this rattle and none have ever failed on
me, including two that are nearing their first decade anniversary (bought
used from a friend). |
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Timed
Release
The current
series of Zenzanon lenses for Bronica have a manual Time release feature
that allows for very long timed exposures without using battery power.
The time release switch is located below the lens when it is mounted
on a camera, as seen below left. |
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To
utilize the feature, pull the silver locking tab from the lens so that
it protrudes out. Slide the lever by the "A" so that it covers
up the letter and reveals a red "T", as shown below. The camera
is now ready for long time exposurs without using battery power.
The camera
does not need to be set to any special shutter speed such as Bulb, as
the Timed switch overrides the shutter speed set on the camera.
Once you
release the shutter, the shutter stays open for as long as you have
the Timed lever on. To close the shutter, slide the tab to cover up
the red T and reveal the A once more. Camera operation will be back
to normal again.
One note,
if using the Time release feature, the use of black cardboard or lens
cap is advisable to act as a secondary "shutter" to cover
up the lens before moving the tab below the camera. By capping the lens
first to close off the exposure, any jiggling you cause on the camera
itself by closing the off the tab, will not reveal themselves on the
film as motion shake or ghosting of the subject. |
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Dry
Firing the Camera
Test firing
the camera without film loaded is done a certain way. Use the Multiple
Exposure control on the side of the camera shown below. Flip it down
so that the red dot is shown, this tells you that multiple exposure
is engaged and the film will not be advanced until released.
This now
allows you to fire the shutter and test the opertion of the camera for
shutter speed accuracy or flash sync. Of course, the dark slide should
be removed from the filmback, as per the first tip at the top of the
page. |
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Motor
Drive and Power Quirks
I've experienced
one particular trait of the camera and motor drive combination, when
the batteries in the motor drive are low in power, the camera does not
fire when the camera is set to a very high angle. Quite strange and
as if the motor drive is not receiving enough current to work in anything
other than straight ahead.
There have
been other quirks with the motor drive independent of the batteries
being low or fresh. A freezing up of the operations has occurred two
or three times since I've owned the camera. I disassemble everything,
try the same battery pack again and the camera and motor drive work
perfectly using the same filmback that apparently caused the freeze-up.
The second
the SQ-Ai body without a motor drive suffers none of these quirks, so
I attribute the problems to the motor drive itself.
Some users
complain of the basic camera draining the little SR-44 (LR-44, etc.)
button cells very quickly. The camera uses four of these cells and cost
about $5 each, so $20 per change in batteries. My main camera is the
motorized body, so the second camera does not see all that much use.
I've also only had it for a couple of years, so cannot offer any long-term
report on battery usage.
What I
have experienced is the first set of cells lasting almost a year and
that is with the camera seeing semi-regular use with perhaps a few dozen
rolls of film put through it. The second set did not last so long but
I attribute that to the many long timed exposures I did during that
period of time. The third set seemed to be in-between what the first
and second set lasted for while I am now on the fourth set of cells
for the stand alone camera.
All in
all, not a huge drain in battery power and really, not out of line for
a larger camera body such as the SQ-Ai. Remember, this is not your father's
or grandfather's manual 35mm SLR, which only used the button cell for
metering. The batteries in the SQ-Ai must power the shutter for every
exposure taken (timed exposures excepted), hence a larger power drain.
The longer the exposure, the greater the power draw.
Edwin,
I saw your
site, (www.camerahobby.com) and was impressed.
I have
the cheaper SQ-B and had to open it up for repairs one day. When I did
I measured the battery drain on the battery and found that it draws
only 15 ma from the battery. In addition it is only drawing current
from the batter during the actual exposure. Thus if the shutter is set
at 1/2 a second, the battery is only used for 1/2 second. The battery
test button also draws about 15 ma from the battery.
Thus for
my use, pressing the battery check button for 1 second is the same as
shooting 5 rolls of film at 1/60th of a second shutter speeds. In any
event, I have owned the camera for several years and have yet to go
through a battery.
I just
thought that since your web site was so informative, I would share a
little information with you.
Thanks
again for your web site.
Ken
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